This historic border market town changed hands between England and Scotland no less than 14 times between its capture by the Scots (around 1018) and its eventual retaking by the English in 1482. In the 12th to 13th centuries it had become Scotland's leading seaport and a town of wealth and distinction, but much was destroyed in the many subsequent sieges the town had to endure. Nowadays the town is more than part Scottish: it is the only English town with a team in the Scottish Football League – the Berwick Rangers, Northumberland's only national league football club. Whilst its river, the Tweed, is officially recognised as Scottish and may not be fished on a Sunday (unlike English rivers). Elizabeth I built the town walls to protect the town from further raids, and they remain the most complete set of Tudor town walls in Europe. The town attracts many thousands of visitors a year to its shops, beaches and other facilities including the Berwick Barracks Museum and the Maltings Arts Centre.